Hello Spring! Hello Beautiful!

Colors!

My favorite collection this Spring-Summer season is from Jil Sander.  For most fashion houses, the unanimous approach this season is COLOR—fruity colors, flowery colors, sugary colors…  Yet one of the main reasons I love the Jil Sander collection is its sense of perfection.  Maximizing minimalism with turn-up-the-volume colors and bold silhouettes tailored to perfect proportion, the collection is simple and sleek, yet blossoming playful and humorous.  Creative Director Raf Simons certainly wowed his fans during Fashion Week last September, with something that initially seemed like an implicit challenge (maximalism from Jil Sander!?!) for the house he designs for.  By the way, does anyone remember Sharon Stone’s T-shirt / YSL ball-gown ensemble at the Academy Awards is 1996?  If not, please google. :)

Sander Girls

Known for dressing high-power women in the 80’s and 90’s with her German style of minimalism, many may not know that Ms. Sander no longer owns the business that bears her name.  In 1999 Prada Group bought a 75% share in her company.  Although Sander stayed on as Creative Designer and Chairwoman, she unexpectedly left six months later after disputes with Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli.  Rumors have it that Sander had refused to use cheaper fabrics and adopt to the standardization of sizes, which were demanded by Bertelli who wanted to cut costs and make the house more mainstream.  Ms. Sander returned in 2003 as Head Designer and Partner, designed 2 collections, and again left in 2004.  In 2005 Belgian virtuoso Raf Simons took over.

I often have doubts about fashion houses staying true to their essential spirit after their original Creative Directors leave.  Helmut Lang for one, and what’s coming out from Martin Margiela still puzzles me.  However, Simons’ work gives me the feeling that, not only does he respect the heritage and essence of Jil Sander, but he also instills in it a breath of fresh air which makes the house evolve.  Another one in this league that I admire greatly is Stefano Pilati at YSL.

Sleek and Smart as usual

So, whereabouts is Ms. Sander these days?  On the subject of gong mainstream and fashion redemption, in 2010 Ms. Sander started her collection with Uniqlo, the giant Japanese retailer (part of the USD $15.34 billion Fast Retailing group, currently listed on the Tokyo stock exchange).   Below are looks from the Uniqlo +J Spring-Summer 2011 Collection.

Not exactly screaming color, but sleek and smart as usual.  And, it’s nice to see Ms. Sander back!